DIG THIS by Peg Tillery (for 5-15-09)
We have so many wonderful local farmers markets that we don't lack opportunities to purchase luscious fresh produce at least once a week here in Kitsap County. But, many of us just itch to put a little bit of our own hearts and souls into creating a garden on our own precious plots of land or even in containers on our decks and patios.
My husband Pat gave me the most wonderful Mother's Day present. He built me three gigantic raised beds and then he and I, on Mother's Day weekend, shoveled and moved literally several tons of composted soil into the beds. During this past week I planted the following types of seeds: winter squash 'Table Gold Acorn;' beets; lettuce 'Gourmet Blend;' spinach 'Bloomsdale;' radishes 'Watermelon' and 'Cherry Belle;' carrots 'Thumbelina;' carrots 'Rainbow Blend;' bib lettuce 'Buttercrunch;' romaine lettuce 'Parris Island;' both bush and pole beans in three colors - yellow, green and purple; and last but not least rainbow Swiss chard.
At the Master Gardener Foundation Plant Sale I also picked up some plant starts of peppers (banana and jalapeno) and tomatoes 'Sungold' cherry tomatoes and 'Momotaro.' I also optimistically brought home several basil plants. I may get really adventurous and try to grow some eggplants this year too if I can find them already started at one of our local nurseries. Right now since everything is still fluctuating between quite chilly and quite toasty warm, I'm using floating row covers (commonly called Remay) to keep the plants healthy and happy and not too shocked from all the weather fluctuations. The floating row covers expand as plants grow and also keep any insect pests at bay.
I chose short season varieties of everything I planted. The raised beds each have a section that gets partial shade at crucial parts of the day so we should be able to grow lettuce and spinach all season long. The veggie garden beds are surrounded by lots of pollinator plants and the beds will soak up the sun for 10 or more hours a day. Just perfect for veggies. We're using very small sprayers and soakers to get the water to the plant roots and everything is on a timer so we won't overwater.
Other food growing gardens are popping up all over Kitsap County. Several local papers have covered the p-patch and community garden movement on Bainbridge Island, but several other schools and daycare centers are growing veggie gardens with their students. The child care center at KCR on Park Street in Bremerton has a garden where the kids plant and water nutritious plants. Students from Armin Jahr Elementary are also growing a garden at the newly renovated Blueberry Park. Options students at Gordon Elementary have a raised bed garden and they've been making their own compost to fill the garden beds.
WSU Extension Kitsap Master Gardeners at Anna Smith Garden in Tracyton and Raab Park in Poulsbo have been growing extra food for foodbanks and soup kitchens for more than a decade. Master Gardeners are also coordinating p-patches at Raab Park in Poulsbo and Blueberry Park in Bremerton where p-patchers learn how to grow their own food and most of these gardeners plant an extra row or more to donate to the foodbanks. In addition, this year Master Gardeners are planting veggies and other edibles at the Heritage Garden near the Historic Log Cabin at the Kitsap Fairgrounds. During the Kitsap Fair these volunteers will be on site to help families learn how to grow their own nutritious vegetables. All produce grown will be donated to local foodbanks and soup kitchens.
The Poulsbo Fire Station staff and other community members led by Brett Annear, Master Gardener, Class of 2009, is planning and getting ready to plant a garden to grow produce for Fishline. Master Gardeners in South Kitsap led by Ray Garrido (also Class of 2009) and Mary-Cathern Edwards have cleared a huge garden area to grow food for the Port Orchard food bank. Visit http://southkitsapgarden.org to watch the progress of this wonderful South Kitsap Garden in Olalla. Visit this website and you'll be amazed at how quickly this garden has gone together. It will inspire you to try it on your own piece of land.
Master Gardeners Kathy Morse, Kim Schleis, Laura Pittman-Hewitt and Sharon Howard have taught classes during the last two fall and winters on organic vegetable gardening, along with growing small fruits. If you'd like to learn more about growing vegetables and small fruits please call the Master Gardener hotline at 360-337-7158 or email ptillery@co.kitsap.wa.us. Organic gardening classes will begin again this fall.
Peg Tillery, Horticulture and Shoreline Educator for WSU Extension Kitsap, can be reached at ptillery@co.kitsap.wa.us or 360-337-7224
Friday, May 15, 2009
Friday, April 17, 2009
Spring is Time to Start Composting
DIG THIS by Peg Tillery
What do you do in the spring when you’re out pruning and cleaning up all the detritus from winter and maybe even left over from autumn? Compost of course!
Composting can be as simple as finding a place to pile up all the woody debris and green stuff. This method is called passive composting or cold composting. For esthetics choose a spot behind shrubbery or screen with vegetation or a decorative fenced area. Eventually the pile decomposes and returns to the earth as humus.
Another very simple way to compost is by digging smaller clippings and trimmings into the soil directly around plants. When deadheading plants bury the plant parts in the soil around and between plantings. Don't bury weeds with seeds though.
If you have room on your property pick a shady area in the woods, pile up weedy vegetative debris to make a large pile, water it well and cover it up with a tarp for several months or even longer. The pile will slowly decompose and the shade prevents reseeding. Make sure you aren’t using this method too close to tree root zones to avoid smothering the tree roots.
Hot composting happens over several weeks or longer (depending on the heat and water conditions) and entails turning the piles (usually three feet by three feet by three feet). This method works well in a three-bin system. An unconfined pile about three feet tall and several feet wide, turned frequently, works well too.
If you live in an area with raccoons, bears or other animals do not compost food items, use worm bins instead. Do compost: browns (dried leaves, shredded white paper, shredded newspaper, wood chips, straw); greens (fresh cut grass, flowers, garden clippings, seedless annual weeds, vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea leaves, fruits, herbivore manures). Don’t compost: glossy paper, junk mail, magazines, colored paper (the browns) or diseased plants, weeds with seeds, invasive weeds and roots, cooked foods, dairy products, fatty foods, meat, poultry, fish, pet wastes (the greens). When in doubt call the Master Gardener/Master Composter Hotline at 360-337-7158.
Compost adds tilth to the soil and provides a blanket for plants’ roots. It also adds readily absorbable amounts of nitrogen and nutrients for plants to use. The myccorhizae produced in composting help increase the number of pores in the soil for better water circulation and aids in a healthier growing environment. Building healthy soil helps reduce runoff, erosion and pollution in the environment. Even when weeds crop up in composted areas of gardens they’re easier to pull out.
Worm composting (vermicomposting) can be accomplished using a wide variety of containers. Master Composter Becky Croston created a three tiered system using rubber tubs. Visit http://kitsap.wsu.edu/hort/worm_bin.htm for instructions or call 360-337-7158 for a printed copy of the instructions. Kitsap EZ Earth, 16953 Clear Creek Road, Poulsbo has a worm bin stacking system for sale plus supplies of worms and other vermicompost products. Visit the website at http://kitsapezearth.com/wp/ or call 360-340-2187. Kingston Worm Farm www.kingstonwormfarm.com 360-397-7280 (by appointment) is also another resource for worms and vermicompost products.
What about larger woody debris? Some gardeners have lots of trees and shrubs to prune and clean up, along with limbs and branches on a fairly regular basis. The answer is chipping and shredding to create homemade arborist chips for mulching gardens or use on paths. This woody debris eventually decomposes into good rich soil.
When spreading mulch or compost avoid applying too thickly (use only one or two inches thick). Keep mulch and compost away from woody bark or stems of plants. Leave an open area around the base of the plants. If mulch or compost is too deep or too close to the stems and bark areas it can smother the plants and/or create an environment for disease.
Compost tea is also a way of using compost. Google "compost tea" for information pro and con. Visit reputable sites, then decide for yourself. If you do purchase compost tea make sure it’s been brewed properly and has a certificate saying what’s in the mixture. Compost teas are fungal or bacterial based. Some plants cannot tolerate fungal based teas and others cannot tolerate bacterial based teas. Consult with the supplier to see which is best for your plants. Compost tea has a short shelf life, ideally apply within hours of purchase. Use diluted or concentrated depending on intended use. Nursery staff will provide advice on using compost tea.
Visit Kitsap County Solid Waste http://www.kitsapgov.com/sw/compost.htm for abundant information on composting, to download "Down to Earth" and for a schedule of upcoming compost classes.
Contact Peg at ptillery@co.kitsap.wa.us or 360-337-7224.
What do you do in the spring when you’re out pruning and cleaning up all the detritus from winter and maybe even left over from autumn? Compost of course!
Composting can be as simple as finding a place to pile up all the woody debris and green stuff. This method is called passive composting or cold composting. For esthetics choose a spot behind shrubbery or screen with vegetation or a decorative fenced area. Eventually the pile decomposes and returns to the earth as humus.
Another very simple way to compost is by digging smaller clippings and trimmings into the soil directly around plants. When deadheading plants bury the plant parts in the soil around and between plantings. Don't bury weeds with seeds though.
If you have room on your property pick a shady area in the woods, pile up weedy vegetative debris to make a large pile, water it well and cover it up with a tarp for several months or even longer. The pile will slowly decompose and the shade prevents reseeding. Make sure you aren’t using this method too close to tree root zones to avoid smothering the tree roots.
Hot composting happens over several weeks or longer (depending on the heat and water conditions) and entails turning the piles (usually three feet by three feet by three feet). This method works well in a three-bin system. An unconfined pile about three feet tall and several feet wide, turned frequently, works well too.
If you live in an area with raccoons, bears or other animals do not compost food items, use worm bins instead. Do compost: browns (dried leaves, shredded white paper, shredded newspaper, wood chips, straw); greens (fresh cut grass, flowers, garden clippings, seedless annual weeds, vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea leaves, fruits, herbivore manures). Don’t compost: glossy paper, junk mail, magazines, colored paper (the browns) or diseased plants, weeds with seeds, invasive weeds and roots, cooked foods, dairy products, fatty foods, meat, poultry, fish, pet wastes (the greens). When in doubt call the Master Gardener/Master Composter Hotline at 360-337-7158.
Compost adds tilth to the soil and provides a blanket for plants’ roots. It also adds readily absorbable amounts of nitrogen and nutrients for plants to use. The myccorhizae produced in composting help increase the number of pores in the soil for better water circulation and aids in a healthier growing environment. Building healthy soil helps reduce runoff, erosion and pollution in the environment. Even when weeds crop up in composted areas of gardens they’re easier to pull out.
Worm composting (vermicomposting) can be accomplished using a wide variety of containers. Master Composter Becky Croston created a three tiered system using rubber tubs. Visit http://kitsap.wsu.edu/hort/worm_bin.htm for instructions or call 360-337-7158 for a printed copy of the instructions. Kitsap EZ Earth, 16953 Clear Creek Road, Poulsbo has a worm bin stacking system for sale plus supplies of worms and other vermicompost products. Visit the website at http://kitsapezearth.com/wp/ or call 360-340-2187. Kingston Worm Farm www.kingstonwormfarm.com 360-397-7280 (by appointment) is also another resource for worms and vermicompost products.
What about larger woody debris? Some gardeners have lots of trees and shrubs to prune and clean up, along with limbs and branches on a fairly regular basis. The answer is chipping and shredding to create homemade arborist chips for mulching gardens or use on paths. This woody debris eventually decomposes into good rich soil.
When spreading mulch or compost avoid applying too thickly (use only one or two inches thick). Keep mulch and compost away from woody bark or stems of plants. Leave an open area around the base of the plants. If mulch or compost is too deep or too close to the stems and bark areas it can smother the plants and/or create an environment for disease.
Compost tea is also a way of using compost. Google "compost tea" for information pro and con. Visit reputable sites, then decide for yourself. If you do purchase compost tea make sure it’s been brewed properly and has a certificate saying what’s in the mixture. Compost teas are fungal or bacterial based. Some plants cannot tolerate fungal based teas and others cannot tolerate bacterial based teas. Consult with the supplier to see which is best for your plants. Compost tea has a short shelf life, ideally apply within hours of purchase. Use diluted or concentrated depending on intended use. Nursery staff will provide advice on using compost tea.
Visit Kitsap County Solid Waste http://www.kitsapgov.com/sw/compost.htm for abundant information on composting, to download "Down to Earth" and for a schedule of upcoming compost classes.
Contact Peg at ptillery@co.kitsap.wa.us or 360-337-7224.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Moles, Nature's Rototillers
Moles are tunneling all over Kitsap County. Lawns are especially vulnerable. Master Gardeners from all over Kitsap County have been reporting moles tunneling here and there. What's a gardener to do? The answer is not much can be done. For what it's worth here are a few tips and techniques to try, plus several websites with very good information to peruse.
The reason we're seeing so many mole hills and tunnels this time of year is moles are out looking for mates. It's an amorous pursuit for these somewhat cute but shy creatures. It's mole mating season from February to early March. Soon they'll be having their families estimated at 2.9 pups per litter. Not sure what .9 of a mole looks like. In several weeks (about mid April) the parents kick the pups out of the den and these juvenile moles travel anywhere from 14 to 925 yards away to their own new homes. Guess what? That means more tunneling and mounding. But if you live near a forest, they'll head that way and live happily ever after.
Dave Pehling, mammal and mole expert for WSU Extension's Snohomish County office says the best way to eliminate mole problems is to trap the moles. However, Washington State's I-713 made some traps illegal. But moles can still be trapped alive. Visit http://snohomish.wsu.edu/newsletters/moles/molegazette3.htm, this issue of Pehling's news illustrates, literally, the various kinds of traps you can purchase or buy to control moles.
Pehling's newsletter at http://snohomish.wsu.edu/newsletters/moles/molegazette2.htm discusses baits and other methods of controlling moles that do not work. Moles eat worms and insects and are not attracted to gum or other concoctions, contrary to popular folklore.
WSU's publication EB1028, written by Pehling, describes our moles, shows a great photo of what the mole looks like and gives abundant information on how to control moles in home gardens. Visit http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1028/eb1028.html to read and download the publication. If you do not have internet access, call 360-337-7157 to order a copy.
Most moles in our gardens are Townsend's moles. They are the largest of the moles, lucky us. But large means 8-9 inches, which is actually not that large compared to raccoons and other critters sometimes found marauding our gardens. Pehling says mole tunnels can be anywhere from 6 inches to 20 inches deep. Moles eat about 40 pounds of insects and worms annually. They enjoy moist soil because it's easier to tunnel and find insects and worms to devour. Pehling also says "moles eject up to 2 gallons of soil through a lateral tunnel to the surface." Quite impressive - 2 gallons! That's a lot of soil.
Pehling admits he has moles sharing his yard. He has studied them through the years. Moles do not hibernate and if you have some in your garden, they may hang around for their entire life. Just flatten their tunnels down or fill in with the 2 gallons of ejected soil. Moles are nature's aerators and rototillers. That's a way to look on the bright side of things. The other positive thing to tell yourself, if you have moles tunneling it's usually because your soil is healthy and full of worms and good insects.
The reason we're seeing so many mole hills and tunnels this time of year is moles are out looking for mates. It's an amorous pursuit for these somewhat cute but shy creatures. It's mole mating season from February to early March. Soon they'll be having their families estimated at 2.9 pups per litter. Not sure what .9 of a mole looks like. In several weeks (about mid April) the parents kick the pups out of the den and these juvenile moles travel anywhere from 14 to 925 yards away to their own new homes. Guess what? That means more tunneling and mounding. But if you live near a forest, they'll head that way and live happily ever after.
Dave Pehling, mammal and mole expert for WSU Extension's Snohomish County office says the best way to eliminate mole problems is to trap the moles. However, Washington State's I-713 made some traps illegal. But moles can still be trapped alive. Visit http://snohomish.wsu.edu/newsletters/moles/molegazette3.htm, this issue of Pehling's news illustrates, literally, the various kinds of traps you can purchase or buy to control moles.
Pehling's newsletter at http://snohomish.wsu.edu/newsletters/moles/molegazette2.htm discusses baits and other methods of controlling moles that do not work. Moles eat worms and insects and are not attracted to gum or other concoctions, contrary to popular folklore.
WSU's publication EB1028, written by Pehling, describes our moles, shows a great photo of what the mole looks like and gives abundant information on how to control moles in home gardens. Visit http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1028/eb1028.html to read and download the publication. If you do not have internet access, call 360-337-7157 to order a copy.
Most moles in our gardens are Townsend's moles. They are the largest of the moles, lucky us. But large means 8-9 inches, which is actually not that large compared to raccoons and other critters sometimes found marauding our gardens. Pehling says mole tunnels can be anywhere from 6 inches to 20 inches deep. Moles eat about 40 pounds of insects and worms annually. They enjoy moist soil because it's easier to tunnel and find insects and worms to devour. Pehling also says "moles eject up to 2 gallons of soil through a lateral tunnel to the surface." Quite impressive - 2 gallons! That's a lot of soil.
Pehling admits he has moles sharing his yard. He has studied them through the years. Moles do not hibernate and if you have some in your garden, they may hang around for their entire life. Just flatten their tunnels down or fill in with the 2 gallons of ejected soil. Moles are nature's aerators and rototillers. That's a way to look on the bright side of things. The other positive thing to tell yourself, if you have moles tunneling it's usually because your soil is healthy and full of worms and good insects.
Time to Think Roses
In February many gardeners start dreaming about roses. There are even several gardeners in Kitsap County who literally have more than a hundred varieties of roses growing in their gardens. Other gardeners wouldn't grow roses if their lives depended on it.
Through the years breeders have been perfecting roses for disease resistance, ease of growing and wonderful appeal. Weeks Roses from Wasco, California supplies roses to many of our local nurseries: Bay Hay (Bainbridge Island), Bainbridge Gardens, Valley Nursery, Country Nursery and Gardens, Clear Creek Nursery and Port Orchard Nursery. In late fall and the dead of winter, they receive the current listings of available roses for the upcoming years. Talk to your favorite nursery staff person at these nurseries to find out their favorite varieties for 2009 or to order in new roses for you each year.
Weeks Roses was founded in 1938. The test gardens are at Cal Poly in Pomona. Each year researchers Tom Carruth and Christian Bedard of Cal Poly hand pollinate 50,000 flowers to produce more than 250,000 seeds. Over a period of 8-11 years they come up with the best of the varieties to finally release to the public. Check out the website www.weeksroses to see a fascinating slide presentation on the process, even if you'll never plant a rose, the process is amazing.
Roses receive AARS (All American Rose Selection) ratings. To see AARS rose selections through the years, visit the Woodland Park Rose Garden or the Point Defiance Rose Garden, each not too far away from Kitsap County.
The AARS website http://www.rose.org has a complete listing of roses just perfect for Kitsap County and the Pacific Northwest. I'm coveting Marmalade Sky a 3-foot by 3-foot beauty with five to eight blooms per stem. Each blossom has 17-25 petals. It will bloom for months. Fourth of July is a climber. It's the first climbing rose to win the AARS award in 23 years. Blossoms are red with white stripes. The red actually has hints of orange, the white stripes hint of peach, the center is a bright golden yellow. This climber grows 12-14 feet tall and has the scent of "fresh cut apple and sweet rose."
If you're tempted to grow roses, make sure you have lots of sun. Six hours a day is the barest minimum and more sun each day is even better. Roses also love good air circulation. They need regular watering so plant them in a zone of plants in your garden that need regular water (several times a week during July through September). Use a soaker hose or drip system to send water directly to the root zone so you're not wasting precious water resources. Always select varieties that are resistant to pests and diseases. Rose propagators have developed literally hundreds of easy-care varieties.
For gardening in small spaces, try the new ground cover shrub roses or even miniature roses. "Flower Carpet Roses" have been a favorite of mine for about nine years now. You can't go wrong with these beauties, they thrive on neglect with very little watering once established. Once a month is quite sufficient for them. Leaves are glossy and flowers are abundant. Miniature roses live happily for years and years in containers. Water them as you would any containerized plant and fertilize with a liquid organic fertilizer.
Check out "Dig This" archives at http://kitsap.wsu.edu/hort/dig_this/dig_this_toc.htm for nine years of columns on a wide variety of gardening topics.
Through the years breeders have been perfecting roses for disease resistance, ease of growing and wonderful appeal. Weeks Roses from Wasco, California supplies roses to many of our local nurseries: Bay Hay (Bainbridge Island), Bainbridge Gardens, Valley Nursery, Country Nursery and Gardens, Clear Creek Nursery and Port Orchard Nursery. In late fall and the dead of winter, they receive the current listings of available roses for the upcoming years. Talk to your favorite nursery staff person at these nurseries to find out their favorite varieties for 2009 or to order in new roses for you each year.
Weeks Roses was founded in 1938. The test gardens are at Cal Poly in Pomona. Each year researchers Tom Carruth and Christian Bedard of Cal Poly hand pollinate 50,000 flowers to produce more than 250,000 seeds. Over a period of 8-11 years they come up with the best of the varieties to finally release to the public. Check out the website www.weeksroses to see a fascinating slide presentation on the process, even if you'll never plant a rose, the process is amazing.
Roses receive AARS (All American Rose Selection) ratings. To see AARS rose selections through the years, visit the Woodland Park Rose Garden or the Point Defiance Rose Garden, each not too far away from Kitsap County.
The AARS website http://www.rose.org has a complete listing of roses just perfect for Kitsap County and the Pacific Northwest. I'm coveting Marmalade Sky a 3-foot by 3-foot beauty with five to eight blooms per stem. Each blossom has 17-25 petals. It will bloom for months. Fourth of July is a climber. It's the first climbing rose to win the AARS award in 23 years. Blossoms are red with white stripes. The red actually has hints of orange, the white stripes hint of peach, the center is a bright golden yellow. This climber grows 12-14 feet tall and has the scent of "fresh cut apple and sweet rose."
If you're tempted to grow roses, make sure you have lots of sun. Six hours a day is the barest minimum and more sun each day is even better. Roses also love good air circulation. They need regular watering so plant them in a zone of plants in your garden that need regular water (several times a week during July through September). Use a soaker hose or drip system to send water directly to the root zone so you're not wasting precious water resources. Always select varieties that are resistant to pests and diseases. Rose propagators have developed literally hundreds of easy-care varieties.
For gardening in small spaces, try the new ground cover shrub roses or even miniature roses. "Flower Carpet Roses" have been a favorite of mine for about nine years now. You can't go wrong with these beauties, they thrive on neglect with very little watering once established. Once a month is quite sufficient for them. Leaves are glossy and flowers are abundant. Miniature roses live happily for years and years in containers. Water them as you would any containerized plant and fertilize with a liquid organic fertilizer.
Check out "Dig This" archives at http://kitsap.wsu.edu/hort/dig_this/dig_this_toc.htm for nine years of columns on a wide variety of gardening topics.
NW Flower and Garden Show
It's time to pick up your tickets for the Northwest Flower and Garden Show held each year at the Washington State Convention Center, 7th and Pike in Seattle. This annual event is the first harbinger of spring for local gardeners. 2009 dates are February 18 through 22. Several of our Kitsap Peninsula garden talents will be there to entertain, enthrall and educate show goers.
This year's theme is "Sustainable Spaces, Beautiful Places." Gardeners both seasoned and brand new can stroll through 26 differently designed spaces. Each display garden will show ways to restore, reuse and rejuvenate gardens while using sustainable and eco-friendly methods. Show designers this year are concentrating on gardens that could definitely be replicated on our own pieces of the earth.
Sue Goetz from "The Creative Gardener" in Gig Harbor has designed a show garden for the fourth year. The garden is titled "L'eau (water) and sage (wise). She's incorporated gravel elements throughout. Plants are water wise, perfectly suited for sunny spaces. Visit Goetz's website at www.thecreativegardener.com.
Dan Robinson from Elandan Gardens in Port Orchard is a featured designer each year at the show. This year Dan becomes a living model in the garden's vignette. "Restoring a Garden to Former Glory" is the theme. The storyline is about a grandfather who now has more time on his hands. He sets out to restore an overgrown, neglected garden to its former glory. Show goers will witness Dan in the display garden demonstrating hands on techniques throughout the show's run. He'll answer pruning, training and planting questions in addition to creating a feast for the senses.
Don't miss renowned garden expert and author, Dan Hinkley: "Plant Lust, Drama Queens - Bold Plants for Show Stopping Effects" on Friday February 20 at 9:45 a.m. and again on Friday at 1:15 "The Garden In Winter - Celebrating Texture, Color and Form." Garden Designer and writer Colleen Miko (Colleen's) will demonstrate "Mosaics, How to Make Mosaic Garden Art" on the DIY Stage on Saturday February 21. Susan Harrington (Labyrinth Hill Lavender) will show children, parents and interested adults the "Five Minute Greenhouse - Make Your Own Mini-Greenhouse" on Saturday and Sunday February 21 and 22. Garden Designer and writer Susan Goetz (The Creative Gardener) will speak on "In Love With Lavender, Creative Uses for Fragrant Lavender" on Sunday Feb. 22.
Early bird tickets for the show are $16 purchased locally at: Bay Hay, Bainbridge Gardens, Town and Country Market, Central Market, Valley Nursery, Bremerton City Nursery, and Rosedale Gardens. According to the Garden Show website the early bird rate is good until February 17. After that the price is $20. Visit the show's website for more details http://www.gardenshow.com/seattle/index/index.cfm
If journeying to Seattle is too daunting come explore 6 hour gardening classes on select Fridays from January through March 2009 at the Norm Dicks Government Center in Bremerton. Horticulture topics vary each Friday. Find the complete listing of classes and registration details at http://kitsap.wsu.edu/events/pdf/2009_Gardening_Courses.pdf. Each class is $35 payable in advance. If you do not have access to the Internet call 360-337-7157 and the WSU Kitsap Extension Office will send you a printed schedule and details.
This year's theme is "Sustainable Spaces, Beautiful Places." Gardeners both seasoned and brand new can stroll through 26 differently designed spaces. Each display garden will show ways to restore, reuse and rejuvenate gardens while using sustainable and eco-friendly methods. Show designers this year are concentrating on gardens that could definitely be replicated on our own pieces of the earth.
Sue Goetz from "The Creative Gardener" in Gig Harbor has designed a show garden for the fourth year. The garden is titled "L'eau (water) and sage (wise). She's incorporated gravel elements throughout. Plants are water wise, perfectly suited for sunny spaces. Visit Goetz's website at www.thecreativegardener.com.
Dan Robinson from Elandan Gardens in Port Orchard is a featured designer each year at the show. This year Dan becomes a living model in the garden's vignette. "Restoring a Garden to Former Glory" is the theme. The storyline is about a grandfather who now has more time on his hands. He sets out to restore an overgrown, neglected garden to its former glory. Show goers will witness Dan in the display garden demonstrating hands on techniques throughout the show's run. He'll answer pruning, training and planting questions in addition to creating a feast for the senses.
Don't miss renowned garden expert and author, Dan Hinkley: "Plant Lust, Drama Queens - Bold Plants for Show Stopping Effects" on Friday February 20 at 9:45 a.m. and again on Friday at 1:15 "The Garden In Winter - Celebrating Texture, Color and Form." Garden Designer and writer Colleen Miko (Colleen's) will demonstrate "Mosaics, How to Make Mosaic Garden Art" on the DIY Stage on Saturday February 21. Susan Harrington (Labyrinth Hill Lavender) will show children, parents and interested adults the "Five Minute Greenhouse - Make Your Own Mini-Greenhouse" on Saturday and Sunday February 21 and 22. Garden Designer and writer Susan Goetz (The Creative Gardener) will speak on "In Love With Lavender, Creative Uses for Fragrant Lavender" on Sunday Feb. 22.
Early bird tickets for the show are $16 purchased locally at: Bay Hay, Bainbridge Gardens, Town and Country Market, Central Market, Valley Nursery, Bremerton City Nursery, and Rosedale Gardens. According to the Garden Show website the early bird rate is good until February 17. After that the price is $20. Visit the show's website for more details http://www.gardenshow.com/seattle/index/index.cfm
If journeying to Seattle is too daunting come explore 6 hour gardening classes on select Fridays from January through March 2009 at the Norm Dicks Government Center in Bremerton. Horticulture topics vary each Friday. Find the complete listing of classes and registration details at http://kitsap.wsu.edu/events/pdf/2009_Gardening_Courses.pdf. Each class is $35 payable in advance. If you do not have access to the Internet call 360-337-7157 and the WSU Kitsap Extension Office will send you a printed schedule and details.
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Dreaming About Spring – catalogues and websites
DIG THIS by Peg Tillery (for 12-31-08)
When the weather is wickedly cold and we really don’t want to go outdoors, it’s a great time to pour through some garden catalogues or visit websites to plan out some spring planting.
Nichols Garden Nursery www.nicholsgardennursery.com out of Oregon supplies seeds to many of our local nurseries. The complete catalogue is online or you can order a mailed copy via the website or call 1-800-422-3985. Nichols Garden Nursery is celebrating its 60 year anniversary in 2009. Rosemary Nichols McGee’s “Gardener’s Pantry” blog offers loads of growing tips and recipes too.
Seeds of Change www.seedsofchange.com is celebrating 20 years in 2009. Seeds and plants from this gardening source are organic and the mission of Seeds of Change is to support sustainable agriculture. Visit the website for information on seed saving, sustainable agriculture, recipes, news articles and a host of information and resources for organic gardening. Or call 1-888-762-7333 to order a catalogue.
Ed Hume Seeds www.humeseeds.com (253-435-4414) has not only a catalogue, but also abundant growing information compiled by Ed Hume, one of our Pacific Northwest icons. Hume has been supplying seeds to northwest gardeners since 1977. His seeds are available at many local nurseries, grocery stores and retail outlets. Ed Hume Seeds are known for their ability to grow successfully in our often chilly summers. Ed Hume Seeds is in Puyallup and their children’s garden is open to the public. Call Ed Hume Seeds for details.
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds www.rareseeds.com has over 1200 varieties of heirloom seeds and an online catalogue. Baker Creek Farm is in Missouri in the Ozarks. Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds was started in 1998 to preserve rare and heirloom seeds for future generations. Some of the varieties won’t do well here in our area, but many will. The site even has a magazine to peruse online or to order a subscription.
Many of us remember the devastating fire in Pt. Townsend that destroyed Abundant Life Seeds and their entire inventory housed there. Since then Abundant Life Seeds has relocated to London, Oregon, home of Territorial Seeds and London Spring Farms. The new website www.abundantlifeseeds.com tells the story of the relocation and offers an online catalogue. All seeds are organic. Call 541-767-9606 to order a catalogue if you do not have Internet access.
Territorial Seeds 800-626-0866 www.territorialseed.com has oodles and oodles of gardening information including gardening tips from the staff and canning information. The site also has mason bee kits and white button mushroom kits along with seeds, seeds and more seeds. Territorial Seeds are available locally at nurseries, garden centers and other retail outlets.
Ronnigers Potato Farm in Colorado is renowned for its seed potatoes and garlic starts suitable for growing here in our climate too. Visit www.ronnigers.com (877-204-8704) to explore the website, read the blog and learn how to grow garlic and potatoes. Ronnigers features organic and heirloom varieties.
When the weather is wickedly cold and we really don’t want to go outdoors, it’s a great time to pour through some garden catalogues or visit websites to plan out some spring planting.
Nichols Garden Nursery www.nicholsgardennursery.com out of Oregon supplies seeds to many of our local nurseries. The complete catalogue is online or you can order a mailed copy via the website or call 1-800-422-3985. Nichols Garden Nursery is celebrating its 60 year anniversary in 2009. Rosemary Nichols McGee’s “Gardener’s Pantry” blog offers loads of growing tips and recipes too.
Seeds of Change www.seedsofchange.com is celebrating 20 years in 2009. Seeds and plants from this gardening source are organic and the mission of Seeds of Change is to support sustainable agriculture. Visit the website for information on seed saving, sustainable agriculture, recipes, news articles and a host of information and resources for organic gardening. Or call 1-888-762-7333 to order a catalogue.
Ed Hume Seeds www.humeseeds.com (253-435-4414) has not only a catalogue, but also abundant growing information compiled by Ed Hume, one of our Pacific Northwest icons. Hume has been supplying seeds to northwest gardeners since 1977. His seeds are available at many local nurseries, grocery stores and retail outlets. Ed Hume Seeds are known for their ability to grow successfully in our often chilly summers. Ed Hume Seeds is in Puyallup and their children’s garden is open to the public. Call Ed Hume Seeds for details.
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds www.rareseeds.com has over 1200 varieties of heirloom seeds and an online catalogue. Baker Creek Farm is in Missouri in the Ozarks. Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds was started in 1998 to preserve rare and heirloom seeds for future generations. Some of the varieties won’t do well here in our area, but many will. The site even has a magazine to peruse online or to order a subscription.
Many of us remember the devastating fire in Pt. Townsend that destroyed Abundant Life Seeds and their entire inventory housed there. Since then Abundant Life Seeds has relocated to London, Oregon, home of Territorial Seeds and London Spring Farms. The new website www.abundantlifeseeds.com tells the story of the relocation and offers an online catalogue. All seeds are organic. Call 541-767-9606 to order a catalogue if you do not have Internet access.
Territorial Seeds 800-626-0866 www.territorialseed.com has oodles and oodles of gardening information including gardening tips from the staff and canning information. The site also has mason bee kits and white button mushroom kits along with seeds, seeds and more seeds. Territorial Seeds are available locally at nurseries, garden centers and other retail outlets.
Ronnigers Potato Farm in Colorado is renowned for its seed potatoes and garlic starts suitable for growing here in our climate too. Visit www.ronnigers.com (877-204-8704) to explore the website, read the blog and learn how to grow garlic and potatoes. Ronnigers features organic and heirloom varieties.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Holiday Plants – What to do?
Dig This by Peg Tillery
What do we do with those wonderfully colorful holiday plants we just can’t resist? This is the dilemma many of us face each year, especially if we love plants and hate to throw away a plant that is still looking very appealing and healthy.
Poinsettias
These beauties now come in a wide range of colors and shades – yellow, white, pink, magenta, crimson, candy stripes, spotted (red on white and white on red) and just plain red. The colored foliage we see is really leaves and the true flowers are the green and yellow b-b shaped structures you see in the center of all the color.
Water poinsettias each week (keeping soil moist, not soggy) and they’ll continue to reward you with colorful foliage until at least March. Then just consider them an annual and allow yourself to throw them out with the trash or you could even add them to your compost. Do not put them in your worm bin because Poinsettias are a euphorbia and the sap is latex like that would make your worms very ill.
Some gardeners keep their poinsettias growing for many years. In Mexico poinsettias grow into trees. Visit http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia/facts.cfm for more info.
Holiday Cacti
Here’s the straight scoop on holiday cacti found in stores during spring, fall and winter. They’re quite easy to grow and very forgiving plants. They’re epiphytic plants native to Brazil growing in trees in the Organ Mountains (22 south latitude). Temperatures are usually a constant 60-70 F and rainfall is 17 inches per month during December through March.
We’ve known them as Schlumbergera and some plant tags might label them Zygocactus, Ephipyllum, Rhipsalidopsis, Cereus or Cactus. Schlumbergera were named after a Belgian horticulturist, Frederick Schlumberger. Europeans call it “Crab cactus.” (Look at the leaves.) In Brazil the plant flowers during April and May. Leaves of Schlumbergera have (joints) with serrated edges. Rhipsalidopsis have narrower more rounded leaves with tiny hairs along the edges. Some Rhipsalidopsis look fern like.
Blooms of all these holiday cacti are bright and colorful in shades of red, pink, purple, orange, yellow and white. The Schlumbergera flowers are longer with blooms strung together festooning the tips of the leaf segments. Rhipsalidopsis blooms are star shaped single flowers, again on the tips of the leaves.
Many recommend cold temperatures, special soil, and periods of dry soil to get these cacti to bloom. Most commonly you’ll read “put the plant in a cold place (garage) for several weeks or months to gain blooms.” Researchers found that letting the cacti dry out actually inhibits bloom. And, in a garage, you could lose the plant to chill or neglect. Remember where the plants grow in nature. Their growing conditions are actually similar to orchids and African violets.
African violet potting soil is a good growing medium as is regular potting soil. Don’t use a cactus mix (it drains too quickly). Holiday cacti like plenty of light but not direct sunlight. If you have success growing African violets place the cacti in the same area and they’ll do fine. These holiday cacti will actually flower two to four times a year. Use a liquid fertilizer (12-15-10 such as Schultz) about once a month. Basically these plants thrive on neglect. Water about every other week in the winter and once a week in the summer. They also enjoy being potbound so no need to pot up very often.
What do we do with those wonderfully colorful holiday plants we just can’t resist? This is the dilemma many of us face each year, especially if we love plants and hate to throw away a plant that is still looking very appealing and healthy.
Poinsettias
These beauties now come in a wide range of colors and shades – yellow, white, pink, magenta, crimson, candy stripes, spotted (red on white and white on red) and just plain red. The colored foliage we see is really leaves and the true flowers are the green and yellow b-b shaped structures you see in the center of all the color.
Water poinsettias each week (keeping soil moist, not soggy) and they’ll continue to reward you with colorful foliage until at least March. Then just consider them an annual and allow yourself to throw them out with the trash or you could even add them to your compost. Do not put them in your worm bin because Poinsettias are a euphorbia and the sap is latex like that would make your worms very ill.
Some gardeners keep their poinsettias growing for many years. In Mexico poinsettias grow into trees. Visit http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia/facts.cfm for more info.
Holiday Cacti
Here’s the straight scoop on holiday cacti found in stores during spring, fall and winter. They’re quite easy to grow and very forgiving plants. They’re epiphytic plants native to Brazil growing in trees in the Organ Mountains (22 south latitude). Temperatures are usually a constant 60-70 F and rainfall is 17 inches per month during December through March.
We’ve known them as Schlumbergera and some plant tags might label them Zygocactus, Ephipyllum, Rhipsalidopsis, Cereus or Cactus. Schlumbergera were named after a Belgian horticulturist, Frederick Schlumberger. Europeans call it “Crab cactus.” (Look at the leaves.) In Brazil the plant flowers during April and May. Leaves of Schlumbergera have (joints) with serrated edges. Rhipsalidopsis have narrower more rounded leaves with tiny hairs along the edges. Some Rhipsalidopsis look fern like.
Blooms of all these holiday cacti are bright and colorful in shades of red, pink, purple, orange, yellow and white. The Schlumbergera flowers are longer with blooms strung together festooning the tips of the leaf segments. Rhipsalidopsis blooms are star shaped single flowers, again on the tips of the leaves.
Many recommend cold temperatures, special soil, and periods of dry soil to get these cacti to bloom. Most commonly you’ll read “put the plant in a cold place (garage) for several weeks or months to gain blooms.” Researchers found that letting the cacti dry out actually inhibits bloom. And, in a garage, you could lose the plant to chill or neglect. Remember where the plants grow in nature. Their growing conditions are actually similar to orchids and African violets.
African violet potting soil is a good growing medium as is regular potting soil. Don’t use a cactus mix (it drains too quickly). Holiday cacti like plenty of light but not direct sunlight. If you have success growing African violets place the cacti in the same area and they’ll do fine. These holiday cacti will actually flower two to four times a year. Use a liquid fertilizer (12-15-10 such as Schultz) about once a month. Basically these plants thrive on neglect. Water about every other week in the winter and once a week in the summer. They also enjoy being potbound so no need to pot up very often.
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